Sod Care
Sod Busters Turf, Inc.
Sod Care Suggestions Upon Installation
1. Before putting any type of additive/amendment to your soil, TAKE A SOIL TEST! The soil you have in your
existing yard is the foundation for your sod. We do not make general recommendations for any type of
fertilizer or additive unless we know what the soil test results of your yard show. DON'T GUESS... SOIL TEST!
2. Kill any existing weeds or grass with a non-selective herbicide.
3. Once the vegetation has died, till the area to loosen the soil.
4. Before laying the sod, make sure the soil is cool and moist by watering it. After laying the sod, keep the
soil and slab of sod wet with water for 8-10 days. Once the sod begins to put down roots of its own, decrease
watering to every other day, unless sod begins to wilt or turn brown.
5. If sod begins to wilt or turn brown, increase watering to every day.
6. Again, we do not recommend putting down any fertilizer or other additive until the sod is well-established
in your lawn.
Recommendations once your lawn is established*
1. Before putting any type of additive/amendment to your lawn, TAKE A SOIL TEST! The soil you have in
your existing yard is the foundation for your sod. We do not make general recommendations for any type of
fertilizer or additive unless we know what the soil test results of your yard show. DON'T GUESS... SOIL TEST!
(Yes, this is the same #1 rule when you are installing sod for the first time also!)
WINTER (Dec. - Feb.)
 SPRING (March - May)
 SUMMER (June - August)
 FALL (Sept. - Nov.)
  • Gradually lower the height
    of your mower; winter
    should begin without any
    young, tender growth on
    your lawn that makes your
    lawn more appealing to
    winter disease; do this in
    several steps to avoid
    scalping your lawn and
    removing all the green leaf
    tissue
  • Clear your lawn of any large
    debris such as logs, toys,
    gardening equipment, or
    lawn furniture; these objects
    can smother your grass and
    damage your turf
  • Remove thatch that has
    accumulated in your lawn
    using a rake, or for bad
    cases of thatch, you may
    need to aerate your lawn
  • Most people want to
    overseed their lawn to enjoy
    a green lawn through the
    winter, but the grass used
    for overseeding will
    compete with your existing
    lawn once the spring green-
    up begins
  • Although your lawn is
    dormant, and may appear
    to be dead, it is still very
    much ALIVE! Do not forget
    to continue to water your
    lawn during extended
    periods of dry weather
    during the winter; prolonged
    dry conditions can still
    cause winter kill
  • Beware of spring fever;
    many people assume the
    beginning of March is the
    best time to fertilize their
    lawn; this is not the case
  • Feed your lawn after the
    last frost, when the roots
    that will sustain your lawn
    through the summer are
    actively growing; this last
    frost for our area is usually
    sometime after the Easter
    holiday
  • Spring feedings should be
    light and at a reduced rate;
    the time to apply will be
    after approximately 3
    cuttings of your lawn
  • Applying a high-nitrogen
    fertilizer in early spring may
    cause sod to grow too fast,
    before roots can grow to
    support the lawn; this will
    make the lawn less tolerant
    of summer heat
  • Never apply nitrogen
    fertilizers after May or
    before September
  • Lime, however, can be
    applied in early spring, if
    soil tests show that lime is
    necessary; optimum pH
    levels for lawns in our area
    is between 6.0 - 7.0,
    slightly acidic; it is best to
    have the soil pH tested
    about every 2 years to
    make sure your lawn is
    within optimum range
  • When mowing, increase
    your cutting height by about
    1-2 inches; this will shade
    roots and reduce
    evaporation from the soil
  • Also, it is better to water
    very early in the morning
    at, like 4-5AM; this gives
    the lawn the opportunity to
    dry before nightfall, when
    growing fungus' are most
    active
  • It is much better to water
    deeply a few times a week
    than to water lightly every
    day; deep soaking
    encourages deep root
    growth, and light watering
    means the roots will all be
    near the top of the soil and
    will be more susceptible to
    heat and drought
  • This is a good time to
    AVOID fertilizer since
    fertilizer only creates more
    growth; more growth leads
    to more mowing and more
    water requirements
  • In early fall, apply a slow-
    release fertilizer to your
    lawn with a ratio of 3-1-2:
    high in nitrogen and
    potassium and low in
    phosphorous; this will
    promote strong root
    development going into the
    winter
  • Be sure to water this
    feeding in well to ensure
    the fertilizer gets all the way
    into the ground rather than
    sitting on top of the blades
  • Do not give in to the
    temptation to cut your lawn
    all the way to the roots so
    that your mowing will be
    over for the year; continue
    to cut your grass to the
    optimum mowing height for
    your type of turf; it is also
    best to remove the
    clippings from your lawn
  • If you have pH problems,
    fall is a great time to add
    lime or sulphur to correct
    these problems
  • Remove dead leaves from
    your lawn
  • For ANNUAL weeds, you
    need to apply a pre-
    emergent now to prevent
    annual weeds and apply a
    post-emergent later in the
    season to kill annual weeds
    that escaped the pre-
    emergent, as well as
    perennial and biennial
    weeds
  • The best way to control
    perennial weeds such as
    dandelions, clover, and
    ground ivy is to use spot
    applications of herbicide;
    this will go quickly to the
    roots of these weeds
*Above recommendations are for general purposes only; EVERY LAWN is unique and could have special needs
4403 McCracken Road
Galivants Ferry, SC 29544
Office:  843.358.2574
Mobile: 843.995.7412
Fax: 843.358.2584